Resetting New York’s Economy

New York University recently issued a study called “New York City: The Great Reset” that took a look at changes in New York’s economy since the 9/11 attacks. As the name implies, Richard Florida, who holds a professorship at NYU, was a contributor to the city.

I wrote up a piece about the study, which is now posted over at City Journal. Here’s an excerpt:

It’s easy to take the safety and prosperity of present-day New York City for granted, but over the last 15 years, any number of events could have derailed its success. The dot-com recession of the early 2000s hit the city’s tech industry hard. The 9/11 attacks could have sent people and businesses fleeing permanently. Rudolph Giuliani could have been succeeded by a mayor who rolled back the city’s remarkable progress. The 2007 financial crash could have dealt a body blow to the city or triggered the kinds of budget crises and service cuts that affected many other cities. Hurricane Sandy could have been even worse than it was. And so on.

Despite these setbacks, New York has continued to boom.

Click through to read the whole thing.

from The Urbanophile
http://www.urbanophile.com/2015/08/31/resetting-new-yorks-economy/

America’s Shrinking Cities Are Gaining Brains

If there’s one thing that’s a nearly universal anxiety among cities, it’s brain drain, or the loss of educated residents to other places. I’ve written about this many times over the years, critiquing the way it is normally conceived.

Since brain drain seems to be a major concern in shrinking cities, I decided to take a look at the facts around brains in those places. Looking at the 28 metro areas among the 100 largest that had objective measures of shrinkage – in population and/or jobs – between 2000 and 2013, I looked what what happened to their educational attainment levels.

My results were published today in my Manhattan Institute study “Brain Gain in America’s Shrinking Cities.” As the title implies, my key findings were:

  • Every major metro area in the country that has been losing population and/or jobs is actually gaining people with college degrees at double digit rates.
  • As a whole the shrinking city group is holding its own with the country in terms of educational attainment rates, and in many cases outperforming it.
  • Even among younger adults, most shrinking cities are adding more of them with degrees, increasing their educated population share, and even catching up with the rest of the country in their college degree attainment levels.

The following chart of metro area population change vs. degree change for select cities should drive the point home.

Click through to read the whole thing.

In short, for most places, it looks like the battle against brain drain has actually been won. As people there can attest, thanks to many improvements public and private over the years, they are now viable places to live for higher end talent in a way they weren’t say 20 years ago. This means the attention and resources that have been devoted to this issue can now be put to more present day tasks such as repairing civic finances, rebuilding core public services, and creating more economic opportunity for those without degrees.

More commentary later perhaps, but for now please check out the report and share widely.

from The Urbanophile
http://www.urbanophile.com/2015/08/27/americas-shrinking-cities-are-gaining-brains/

How To Improve IELTS English Speaking Skills

Learning how to speak English half as good as native speakers do can be quite challenging for many individuals. If you are one of the people for are preparing for IELTS speaking test, get more info here. There are also many things that you can do nowadays to learn and be able to speak well

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The article How To Improve IELTS English Speaking Skills was posted first on polarbear-enterprises.co.uk

Diehard Detroit

I haven’t posted any city videos in a while, but here’s a tilt shift out of Detroit for you to enjoy. If the video doesn’t display for you, click here to watch on YouTube. h/t Likecool

And from the “Not everything is so humane on the Upper West Side department,” here’s a story about a guy who rented a 100 square foot apartment there. If the video doesn’t display for you, click here to watch on Vimeo.

from The Urbanophile
http://www.urbanophile.com/2015/08/25/diehard-detroit/

U.S. Weekly Economic Roundup: What’s The Rush?

The September Federal Open Market Committee (FOMC) meeting is shaping up to be a real cliffhanger. The minutes of July’s meeting didn’t give a clear signal regarding the September move for a rate hike. It is clear, however, that the participants are not in agreement yet. The Fed’s downside risks have increased since their meeting in July: Oil and commodity prices have declined further, and economic and financial developments abroad, especially in China, have deteriorated. We believe the odds for a liftoff have shifted to December from September, though it remains a close call given that domestic economic data since the July meeting continue to be more positive than negative.

The economic releases this week include:

  • Housing starts grew 0.2% to an annual rate of 1.206 million in July (the highest since October 2007) from a revised 1.204 million (was 1.174 million) in June. The rise in starts was driven by a sizeable gain in single-family starts, up 12.8% to 782,000–the highest since the end of 2007. Multifamily starts fell 17.0% to 424,000, though this comes on the heels of a surge in June. Building permits, a forward-looking indicator of starts, fell 16.3% to an annual rate of 1.19 million in July after jumping to 1.337 million (was 1.343 million) in June.
  • Existing home sales climbed 2% to an annual rate of 5.59 million in July–an eight-year high–from a downwardly revised 5.48 million (was 5.49 million) in June. On an annual basis, existing home sales climbed 10.3% in July–the 10th consecutive month of growth. Inventories fell to 2.24 million homes available for sale, representing a historically low 4.7 months at the current sales pace.
  • The National Association of Home Builders/Wells Fargo Housing Market Index (HMI) ticked up one point to 61 in August. Both the current-sales index and the prospective-sales index hit their highest levels in nearly 10 years. However, the index for buyer traffic remains low at 45 (indicating that more than half of the builders think buyer traffic is still low).
  • The Consumer Price Index (CPI) edged up 0.1% in July after climbing 0.3% in June. The core CPI (excluding food and energy) ticked up 0.1% in July following a 0.2% increase in June. Consumer prices were up 0.2% year over year in July, while the core CPI grew 1.8% year over year.
  • The Empire State Manufacturing Index tumbled to negative 14.9–a six-year low–in August from positive 3.9 in July.
  • The Philadelphia Fed Manufacturing Index rose to 8.3 in August from 5.7 in July.
  • U.S. leading economic indicators fell 0.2% in July, after rising 0.6% in June. Eight out of 10 components of the leading index made positive contributions in July. The biggest gain, as usual, came from the interest-rate spread. The only large negative was the contribution from building permits, which pulled back sharply in July after three months of solid gains.
  • Initial jobless claims edged up to a seasonally adjusted 277,000 in the week ended Aug. 15 versus 273,000 (was 274,000) the week before. The four-week moving average rose to 271,500 in the week ended Aug. 15 from 266,000 (was 266,250) the week before. Continuing claims fell to 2.254 million in the week ended Aug. 8.

A Higher Hurdle To Clear

The July FOMC minutes released on Aug. 19 indicated less conviction among Fed members on their two mandates, which left markets guessing on the Fed’s next move. The minutes said that “most judged that the conditions for policy firming had not yet been achieved, but they noted that conditions were approaching that point.” With FOMC members relatively convinced that the jobs market was strong enough for them to initiate a hike, they weren’t “reasonably confident” that inflation outlook was improving. Finally, the minutes highlighted more division between committee members and less conviction in discussions on labor and inflation–not a unified front when they decide on when to initiate the first rate hike in almost 10 years.

Even member agreement on an improving jobs outlook had caveats. FOMC participants agreed that “labor market conditions had improved further” with “many” voters thinking that slack “would be largely eliminated in the near term” if their forecasts were realized. But not everyone agrees with that rosy outlook. “Several” members contended that “some noticeable margins of slack remained.” And while several saw “labor market conditions as at or very close to” maximum employment, others were concerned that “maximum employment could take longer to achieve, noting, for example, the lack of convincing signs of accelerating wages.” That doesn’t bode well for agreement on when to move.

The inflation outlook was even more muddled in the July minutes. While “most” participants still thought that the downward pressure on inflation from low energy prices and a strong dollar would “prove to be temporary” and that inflation would increase to the committee’s objective over the medium term, some participants disagreed, noting that “incoming information had not yet provided grounds for reasonable confidence that inflation would move back to 2% over the medium term” and that the inflation outlook thus “might not soon” meet conditions needed to initiate a firming of policy.

Still, they did agree on one thing. “Almost all members” said that they need more evidence that economic conditions had “firmed enough for them to feel reasonably confident that inflation would return to the committee’s longer-run objective over the medium term.”

While the Fed has not ruled out a September hike, the bar has been set a bit higher than earlier thought. It seems that the “burden of proof” is on September’s shoulders. Incoming data now needs to support a September hike “beyond a reasonable doubt,” rather than strongly argue against it. Overall, we believe the odds for a liftoff has shifted to December, though we’ll still be keeping our eyes on the incoming news to see if the needle moves closer to a September move. Given a more divided committee, we suspect there will be a few dissents either way.


from S&P Dow Jones Indices – HousingViews
http://www.housingviews.com/2015/08/24/u-s-weekly-economic-roundup-whats-the-rush/

When High Density Is Humane

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So many of the complaints about density seem to revolve around all the supposed negative affects of congestion, as well a general sense of the inhumanity of high density living, which in the popular mind is associated with the proverbial “concrete jungle” and a forest of skycrapers.

I can understand why many people want a house on a big lot. On the other hand, high density living, done right, can be extremely livable, humane, and even uncongested.

When I lived in Chicago I frequently would have people tell me that they couldn’t imagine themselves living in such a big, dense city. They no doubt had impressions of living there shaped by their visit to the Loop and other tourist areas, which are indeed crowded and have attributes of the concrete jungle.

But other than a narrow strip less than half a mile wide along the lakefront, most of Chicago isn’t built like that. Chicago actually has some of the most beautiful, livable streets and neighborhoods in America. Except for a few small areas with so-called WPA streets, its neighborhood streets have full infrastructure with generous sidewalks and parkways full of mature trees. Homeowners often landscape this and their front yard such that it’s like walking through a lavish garden simply to walk down the street. Alleys mean no trash in front and the city has virtually no on-street power lines. It also has full and amazing street lighting on streets and alleys. The building stock is mostly single family homes, 2- and 3-flats, and lowrise apartment buildings. Much of it is like a city in a garden.

My old neighborhood was Lakeview, which has 94,000 people in about 3.2 square miles, or 30,000 people per square mile. Yet its residential streets are quiet, tree-lined, and delightful – a far cry from the concrete jungle. Frankly, they are better than the average street in most Midwest cities.

Today I live on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. This neighborhood is the second most dense in the entire city of New York, with 209,000 people in 1.9 square miles, or 110,000 per square mile – over three times as dense as Lakeview and 25 times as dense as the city of Portland.

Given this density, you might think it would be a horrific urban nightmare to live in. Yet, it’s incredibly pleasant, bucolic even.

The picture at the top of this post is West 68th St., where I live. It’s a tree lined street of low to mid-rise buildings with mature trees and very little traffic. Contrary to the jackhammers all night long stereotype of New York, it’s very quiet.

Most of the streets in the UWS are similar: tree-lined, quiet, with beautiful low-rise brownstones and such. Here are a couple photos that I believe are both of West 69th.

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I should mention that behind these buildings, while there aren’t alleys, there are often interior courtyards between blocks with open space and greenery.

The avenues feature taller buildings, but while there are some skycrapers, there aren’t really that many. Here’s a stretch of Columbus Ave, with typical commercial-residential mixed use buildings. (The average is probably a bit more intense than this shot).

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Here’s the intersection of 72nd and Broadway, one of the major intersections in the neighborhood. There are some taller buildings and more intense retail, but a number of those buildings are just stunningly beautiful as well.

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West End Ave., one of the major residential avenues, has more mid-rise towers, but mostly beautiful pre-War buildings at around ~12-14 stories, or not much different from Barcelona.

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Central Park West is one of America’s premier streets, with similar sized buildings to WEA, many of them truly landmark designs, that overlook Central Park.

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Speaking of which, I am a five minute walk from Central Park, ten minutes from the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center (LC has more arts and culture going on than all but probably five total metro areas in the US), and about 15 minutes to the Hudson River greenway. There are two subway trunk lines passing through the area. Traffic moves very rapidly on the main avenues, which have synchronized lights, and you can often traverse almost the entire length of the UWS on say Columbus without stopping. The streets have very light traffic mostly except a handful of major crosstowns. The grid design makes navigation a snap. Accident rates are low.

Though not everybody is as close to Lincoln Center as I am, all of the UWS has good access to Central Park, subways, and the Hudson River. Other people are closer to other cultural amenities, such as the Natural History Museum.

While not every aspect of the UWS is positive, I feel very grateful to live here. It’s an extremely humane and pleasant place to live, despite the density. In fact, the main knock most people have on the UWS is that it’s so humane it’s boring.

I think the Upper West Side shows the elements you need to make density, even very high densities, work right, namely:

1. The right built form, with a variegated style of low to mid-rise buildings – not high rise – and lots of quiet, tree lined, side streets, with mostly high quality architecture.

2. Infrastructure, notably the subways.

3. Amenities like Central Park, the Hudson River, and Lincoln Center.

4. Well-functioning public services, especially public safety and sanitation.

The last one is of particular note, as the neighborhood was not as nice as it was today with only the first three. John Podhoretz, who grew up in the area in the 1970s, wrote about what it was like before order was restored. The musical West Side Story is actually set in the far south end of the neighborhood. (Lincoln Center, whatever its merits as a cultural district, was built as an urban renewal effort to get rid of the Puerto Ricans in the area). Central Park wasn’t much of an amenity when it wasn’t safe to go into it.

These obviously take wealth to sustain, but not all of it has to come from the neighborhood. Clearly the superior building stock came from neighborhood wealth, but parks, subways, etc. are paid for on a broader basis. Given the vibrant ethnic neighborhoods that exist today in other parts of the city, I’m sure this could have been a successful, safe working class Puerto Rican neighborhood with today’s public services environment. Of course, once safety and services were addressed, the value of the real estate skyrocketed.

There are some high rises in the UWS, particularly to the south, but these are the exception, not the rule. Yet this is still the second most dense neighborhood in the city with a hard to comprehend density of 110,000 per square mile. I can see why it isn’t for everybody, but I think people would agree that a neighborhood built like Paris or Barcelona (and in fact lower rise than those cities in most places) is hardly a concrete nightmare.

Density, done right, can be supremely humane and livable.

I think the UWS also illustrates the fallacy of too much of today’s urbanist thinking which is all about building tall to increase housing supply. If you can get to 110K density with mid and low rise buildings, skyscrapers just aren’t needed to provide any reasonable amount of density in the United States.

There’s also a lot of talk about supply restrictions. I don’t like historic districts all that much, because I think in practice they are abusive. Much of the UWS is in a historic district. There are any number of stink bomb buildings on the UWS I wouldn’t mind seeing replaced with new development, a few new skyscrapers wouldn’t be a disaster. If the population density even went up, I wouldn’t mind – it might even be good. But at the risk of sounding like a NIMBY, there’s just no way a neighborhood like this should see a massive increase in FAR to enable redevelopment with taller buildings. Turning one of the world’s great neighborhoods into Midtown would be a disaster.

Instead going directly to policies like “let’s just remove DCs height limit,” instead people should be taking a look at very high density neighborhoods like the UWS that function amazingly well and figure out how to adopt the lessons of that to other places.

from The Urbanophile
http://www.urbanophile.com/2015/08/21/when-high-density-is-humane/

U.S. Weekly Economic Roundup: Still On Track

The first set of data for the third quarter has been more positive than negative. Last week we saw solid employment numbers and business sentiment. This week, the positives continued to outweigh the negatives. Even revisions of key second-quarter data points are now showing that the economy may have in fact expanded at closer to 3% versus a much lower 2.3% estimate from the Bureau of Economic Analysis’ (BEA’s) first release. The trend so far since the last Federal Open Market Committee meeting has been consistent with a September liftoff of raising rates, though it remains a close call whether the recent plunge in commodity prices, dollar strength, and remaining uncertainties over the outlooks for China and Greece will prompt a delay in the first expected quarter-point hike from the Fed.

The economic releases this week include:

  • Retail sales rose 0.6% in July after coming in unchanged (was negative 0.3%) in June. Core retail sales (excluding autos, gasoline, and building materials) rose 0.3% in July, following a 0.2% increase in June. Total retail sales in July were up 2.4% year over year.
  • Industrial production climbed 0.6% in July after inching up 0.1% (was 0.3%) in June. Manufacturing output rose 0.8%, but excluding the motor vehicles output, manufacturing was up only 0.1%. The capacity utilization rate rose to 78% in July from 77.7% the previous month.
  • Wholesale inventories climbed 0.9% in June following a revised 0.6% increase (was 0.8%) in May and grew 5.4% year over year. Wholesale sales inched up 0.1% in June after edging up 0.2% in May. Wholesale sales fell 0.5% year over year.
  • Business inventories climbed 0.8% in June after rising 0.3% in May. Business sales edged up 0.2% in June following a 0.4% increase in the previous month.
  • Labor productivity rose at a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 1.3% in the second quarter following a revised 1.1% decrease (was negative 3.1%) in the first quarter. The unit labor costs rose 0.5% in the second quarter after a downwardly revised 2.3% increase (was 6.7%) in the first. Productivity edged up 0.3% year over year in the second quarter and output climbed 2.8% year over year.
  • Producer prices edged up 0.2% in July after climbing 0.4% in June. The core producer price index (excluding food and energy prices) rose 0.3% in July, matching the previous month’s rate. The producer price index was down 0.8% year over year in July. The core PPI also slowed to 0.6% in July.
  • Import prices fell 0.9% in July after coming in unchanged in June. Export prices edged down 0.2% in July after falling 0.3% in the previous month. On an annual basis, import prices were down 10.4% in July, while export prices were down 6.1%.
  • The federal government budget deficit widened by $54.6 billion year over year in July to $149.2 billion. The year-to-date deficit in fiscal 2015 is $465.5 billion. Government receipts increased by $11.0 billion (or 5.1% year over year) in July. Meanwhile outlays grew $65.6 billion (or 21.2% year over year).
  • According to New York Fed’s Quarterly Household Debt and Credit Report, aggregate household debt balances were unchanged in the second quarter of 2015. As of June 30, 2015, total household indebtedness was $11.85 trillion. Overall household debt remains 6.5% below its third-quarter 2008 peak of $12.68 trillion. Mortgage debt fell while consumer credit and auto loans rose in the quarter. Even as overall debt balances remained steady, the proportion of debt that was delinquent continued to decrease–to 5.6% from 5.7%. This share is still elevated from prerecession levels. Bankruptcies increased slightly over the previous quarter, which had seen the lowest level since before the recession; still, they are down a significant 14% year on year.
  • The preliminary reading of the University of Michigan consumer sentiment index came in at 92.9 in August compared with the final July reading of 93.1.
  • Initial jobless claims edged up to a seasonally adjusted 274,000 in the week ended Aug. 8 versus 269,000 (was 270,000) the week before. The four-week moving average fell to 266,250 in the week ended Aug. 8 from 268,000 (was 268,250) the week before. Continuing claims increased to 2.27 million in the week ended Aug. 1.

Second-quarter real GDP growth was 2.3% in the first release by the BEA, lower than our forecast of 2.8%. However, with the upward revisions of key data points that have come out since the first release, we expect the second-quarter real GDP growth to be revised up–close to 3%. We continue to expect the economy to grow on average at a 3%+ pace during the second half of this year. We see a high rate of inventory accumulation during the first half and weak growth in international demand for U.S. products posing a drag in second half growth. On the other hand, we look for consumers to carry the economy to the finish line. The outlook for consumer spending is bright due to real disposable income gains, modest consumer price inflation, lower energy prices, relatively good employment gains, and a housing market that is gaining traction.


from S&P Dow Jones Indices – HousingViews
http://www.housingviews.com/2015/08/19/u-s-weekly-economic-roundup-still-on-track/

Behind the Facade in St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg - August 2015

St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s new European style capital for imperial Russia, is the most visited city for tourists in Russia. It has a ton of great buildings, energetic street life in its smallish central core, and world-renowned cultural institutions like the Hermitage Museum and the Mariinsky Theater.

As with Moscow, however, I am not going to attempt to replicate what you can find better elsewhere online or in a guidebook. Rather, I want to show a few things that reflect on something a person there told me, namely that “St. Petersburg is like a facade of a city,” similar to the Hollywood western sets in which the “storefronts” have nothing behind them.

I’m not sure exactly what this guy was trying to communicate about his city, but I did experience a few things that I think relate to it, in which the interior of a space is completely different from what you might expect from the exterior. St. Petersburg would appear to be, like many places, a city where you need a local in the know to really show you around.

Consider, for example, this long, well-maintained, genteel, colonnaded, and I think somewhat dull facade.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

What do you think is behind it? Would you believe this:

St. Petersburg - August 2015

It’s a large and high energy street market in a sort of courtyard space. Here’s another passageway with vendor:

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And this place, which left me speechless:

St. Petersburg - August 2015

Then there’s this building, which the person I was with thought was actually abandoned.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

There was somebody sitting out front on a folding chair who looked like a construction worker because his trousers were covered in plaster. We asked to take a peek and it turns out the whole thing was being used as a studio by several artists.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

I had a much cooler picture of an amazing sculpture someone was working on, but he didn’t want it photographed.

Then there are derelict industrial buildings that are more than what they seem, like this one which is in the very center of town, which you can tell from the cathedral sticking up behind it.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

In addition to being home to several creative firms and software companies, the interior of this space also has clubs and bars, one of which I enjoyed a craft beer at. It was a very cool space but I sadly neglected to take a picture.

Here’s another building that at first look doesn’t appear to have much promise.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

But follow that path to a metal door on the back left corner, walk up the staircase to the roof, and there’s a great cafe with excellent coffee and amazing rooftop views of the city.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

What’s in here, I wonder? Not sure. It’s owned by Roman Abramovich, who did not invite me over for tea.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

I’ll wrap up with a couple of urban planning notes. First, a street sign warning of, well, you get it.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

Both St. Petersburg and Moscow have Uber, by the way. I’m not sure how useful it is for tourists, since the two times I took it in St. Petersburg, extensive phone conversations with the driver needed to take place to physically connect, and my Russian speaking companion took care of that. St. Petersburg, as you might have gathered, has a lot of canals and other bodies of water, and they have rolled out UberBOAT service there as well.

I’ll wrap up with a picture of a newish building.

St. Petersburg - August 2015

The local person who was showing me around noted that there were often disputes over buildings like this, with some architects demanding better designs. You’ll note the ground floor treatment could be improved, and the upper floors are EIFS or some similar product, which urbanists there seem not to like any more than we do here.

You can view more of my iPhone pictures of St. Petersburg on Flickr.

from The Urbanophile
http://www.urbanophile.com/2015/08/18/behind-the-facade-in-st-petersburg/

A Visit to Kazan

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

St. Petersburg and Moscow are typical destinations in Russia, but if you’re looking for other places to visit, where do you go? I can’t claim to answer that question as I have not fully surveyed the realm, but I did visit the city of Kazan for a day, so want to share a few observations and photos.

Kazan is a city of a bit over a million people about 450 miles east of Moscow (a flight of around 1:20). It’s the capital of the Tatar Republic of the Russian Federation. The Tatars were a nomads of Turkish ethnicity who established an independent kingdom in the region before being conquered by Ivan the Terrible. They are very proud of their unique ethnicity and history, and have obtained a great deal of autonomy (at least as much as exists in Russia). Originally the province was called Tatariya, but they renamed it Tataristan. To locals, the “-stan” suffix suggests strength and independence on par with other fully independent republics in the region. While they can certainly choose whatever name makes them feel most proud, names ending in “-stan” certainly don’t inspire confidence in America. I don’t think they fully understand the negative brand equity in that term, but don’t let the name scare you off. It’s a modern and as far as I can tell perfectly safe city.

In fact, it’s extraordinarily modern and new. There’s been a vast amount of infrastructure investment, much of it done in conjunction with international sporting events. They hosted the 2013 Summer Universiade (an Olympics for students, I gather), and the 2015 World Aquatics Championship was underway while I visited. They’ve got a brand new airport, brand new freeway network, numerous new buildings, etc.

Looking at Kazan in fact, you might get the impression it’s a boomtown. But it’s not a boom of the type you’d find in the US based on private sector growth. Though the region boasts oil and gas reserves and several manufacturing operations, most revenues go to the federal treasury in Moscow, so it would appear that Putin has showered the region was cash and that is the reason for the construction boom. The difference vs. St. Petersburg, which appeared to be starved for money, was evident. Everything in Russia is more or less state directed, and this is no exception.

Having said that, the state could have invested in purely megalomaniacal projects as has happened in some other regional -stans. Instead a lot has gone into core infrastructure. Yes, some of it is tourist oriented, but the neighborhoods infrastructure I saw was in pretty good shape, and my cab driver said that the city had done a ton of upgrades to neighborhoods streets and such too. They also built a short metro system, though apparently it is under-patronized.

Putin has been favoring the region with money in part to highlight and reward what Russians described to me as “good Muslims.” The Tatar region is about 55% Muslim and 45% Russian Orthodox. The split is basically along ethnic lines (though there’s a segment of Tatars that converted to Christianity). The Muslims in the area have long been known for their moderate brand of Sunni practice, and religious relations have been good, including a high degree of intermarriage (or so I’m told). Google tells me there were some extremist attacks in 2012, so I’m not sure what the status of that is, but I personally wouldn’t let it stop me from visiting there.

The locals are really pushing the religious co-existence angle, which makes sense in a world that is looking for examples of Christianity and Islam getting along. That’s a shrewd marketing strategy.

They also have gone beyond the modern and have pushed historic preservation. While no one is going to confuse Kazan for St. Petersburg, they have tried to restore what they have and have focused on obtaining UNESCO certifications. They are also pushing the Tatar cultural angle. There are plenty of elements of regional cuisine and I thought the food was excellent. Of course they would send me to their best places, but since I was only there one day, that didn’t matter. Kazan also has an important university, so has some attributes of a college town. Several famous Russians spent time living in Kazan, including Leo Tolstoy and Maxim Gorky.

Is Kazan a must-see? No. But if you’re interested in checking out a Russian city other than the big two, it’s definitely worth a visit.

I’ll share a few photos. The one at the top is the main entrance to the Kazan Kremlin. (The term kremlin is an old word meaning “fortress”). Here’s the Russian Orthodox cathedral there:

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

There was originally a mosque in the kremlin that was destroyed when Russians conquered the area. Recently, a new mosque was built on the site to maintain the symbolic religious balance in the area. I think it’s a very nice building.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

They have their own leaning tower.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

The main street leading to the kremlin.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

The kremlin has nice views. There are several rivers and lakes in the area, including the Volga, and plenty of nice vistas.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Take a nice stroll along the lake.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Renovated buildings in the old Tatar Quarter

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

There’s a bit too much hardscape on that redone street for my taste. But it’s interesting because they took out a streetcar and pedestrianized the street. Apparently the vibrations were causing problems with the old buildings in the area, so they wanted to eliminate all vehicles.

Not sure what this is, but it’s in my Kazan file.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Dittos.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

I’ll wrap up with a bit of transport geekery. Yes, they have a bike share system.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Their new metro system is in the Russian style with lots of marble, etc. The system “M” logo is similar to Moscow but in green (the traditional color of Islam). Instead of Moscow style tap cards they are using plastic tokens.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

A metro station.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Station name signage. I believe the top is Russian and the bottom is the Tatar language, which is also written using the Cyrillic script. Interestingly, for at least while into the Soviet period, Tatar was written using the Latin alphabet, but they were apparently forced to change.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Signs.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

Here’s a train in the station. These are the exact same trainsets as the new Moscow ones I mentioned by didn’t have a picture of.

Kazan, Russia - August 2015

As I said, I was only there a day but was glad I went. It was good to get to see a city further into the Russian interior. Lots of money is being spent there, so I’d expect many further developments in the future.

from The Urbanophile
http://www.urbanophile.com/2015/08/14/a-visit-to-kazan/